10/19/2023

Discover the best-kept secrets of Bordeaux


Traveling solo and arrived today in historical Bordeaux to revisit the city and to explore the small villages and towns in southwestern France.  Where I will glide along the riverscape of the Garonne, Dordogne, and Gironde rivers. Stopping in the quaint communities of Cadillac (kad-e-yak), Blaye, Bourg, Libourne, and Saint-Émilion, the most visited place in the Gironde. 

Bordeaux is a port city located in the southwestern region of France, known globally for its famous wine production. After many years of revitalization, this "sleeping beauty" has awoken from its slumber. With civic pride, a vision, and a grand plan for urban revitalization, the Bordelais set in motion a cosmopolitan renewal. Going about cleaning centuries of soot from historical limestone buildings, removing walls and traffic from the ancient city center. Demolishing and relocating riverfront warehouses and docks – creating a riverfront promenade for tourists, cyclists, and joggers to explore this beauty on foot.

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Miroir d'eau (water mirror)

 

It is a mix of historical and modern renaissance. In 2007, Bordeaux received the classification as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, honoring 1810 hectares in the region, along with its historical buildings and sites.  Situated along one of its greatest assets, the Garonne River, flowing into the Gironde Estuary, Gironde River, and the Dordogne, stretching out to the Atlantic Ocean.  Bordeaux has become world famous for its wine regions and beautiful rivers.

The city is beautifully restored and has a modern public transport system, known as the TBM, Transport Bordeaux Métropole.  You can comfortably and economically use four tram lines around this historical city, even reaching the Bordeaux-Mérignac airport.

www.scribblesandsmiles.net
 

Bordeaux is so much more than a place of world-renowned vineyards and wine. Bordeaux abounds with unexpected and heartwarming surprises, like experiencing the historical and heavenly Canelé, dating back to the 19th century, created by the nuns at Saint Eulalia.  It is a bite-size, crispy golden-brown cake, with a thin outer crust, slightly burnt and caramelized, hiding a luscious melt-in-your-mouth treat permeating with a vanilla and rum fusion.

Surprises like Marché des Capucins, Bordeaux’s oldest and largest historical covered market, dating from 1749, still thriving in modern times. This market is often called the “belly of Bordeaux” where the history of the market has stood still. It offers regional delicacies like white asparagus from Blaye, briny oysters from Arcachon, pork belly from the Médoc region, fresh lamb chops from Pauillac (pojak) and more varieties of cheeses than one can imagine.

On the other hand, discover the pilgrim’s trail to Le Chemin de St. Jacques de Compostelle (the Way of St. James) through the heart of Bordeaux. The pilgrim’s route is marked by the inlaid scalloped seashells throughout Bordeaux. The route weaves through cobblestone streets beginning at Porte Cailhau, loops past Sainte Pierre, and on to Saint-André Cathedral for 8.4km through the historic city and beyond.

Bordeaux offers unparalleled treasures to explore, noble chateaux, and breathtaking scenery. Join me in savoring its best kept secrets.

 October 19-October 30, 2023

Tram, Taxi, Recommendation in/around Bordeaux 

Bordeaux-Mérignac airport

TBM  Tram, Bus, train

Marché des Capucins  (open Tuesday – Sunday)

Bordeaux Visitors Tourism

* bus from Bordeaux to Cadillac- take bus 481 from Stalingrad station.-Tram A


  • J. Christina is the author and owner of Scribbles and Smiles. Through our blog, we share stories of the wonderful discoveries we have made on our European travels. Christina (Christie) is married to John, a.k.a. Mr. Christie.  Hence, their bespoke pen name, J. Christina.  Christie is traveling solo on this adventure, 2023.

    J. Christina’s work has been featured on France Today, Bonjour Paris, The Good Life France, and Perfectly Provence.

     


    6/21/2023

    Lyon, France | Historic Traboules, Bouchons, and Silk


    Welcome!  Join our journey to postcard-perfect destinations. 

    All blog posts are based on our personal travels around Europe, penned by J. Christina.

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    Travel dates: July 26- August 8, 2022

    The S.S. Catherine leaves the twin towns of Tain L’Hermitage-Tournon behind and sails 77km north reaching Lyon tonight. Captain Pascal skillfully navigates four more locks en route; Gergans, Sablons Vaugris & Pierre-Benite, docking at Quai Claude Bernard in Lyon, near the Pont de l'Universite bridge. Lyon is the third largest city in France, after Paris and Marseille, and the capital of both the Rhône department and the Auvergne-Rhône Alpes region.  We are nearing the confluence of the Rhône and Saône rivers.

    University Bridge Lyon, France
    Pont de l'Universite bridge             Image by Christie
    We start our morning with a guided walking tour weaving through Vieux Lyon through a warren of cobblestone streets, exploring the secret passageways called Traboules.  During the 19th century these passages were once used to link courtyards, stairs, and homes to the Rhône River. They allow silk weavers to transport their precious silks in inclement weather. In the 20th century, some passageways were used as escape routes and hiding places during the German occupation. Today you can visit some 40 Traboules that are open to tourists but also used by residents as public corridors and community courtyards.  You can locate the Traboules route by the decorative signage, a bronze plaque with a lion’s head, and arrow pointing the way.   

    Our tour of Lyon would not be complete without a stop at Brochier Soieries, an 1890 silk shop specializing in handcrafted silk fabrics, scarves, ties and other high quality made-in France products. The family is dedicated to keeping the 16th century Lyon traditional industry alive for multiple generations.
    Brochier Soieries 1890 Silk Merchant Lyon, France
    Brochier Soieries 1890

    11/14/2022

    Twin Towns: Tain L’Hermitage & Tournon on the Rhône River in Provence


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    Travel dates: July 26- August 8, 2022

    L’Hermitage. Tournon

    Luxury river cruising offers the best of what seasoned travelers want: stress-free, all-inclusive travel, dining, and daily guided excursions, all onboard a 5-star boutique river ship, while slowly plying Europe’s beautiful waterways.

    On a very hot day in August, embarking on a European river cruise ship for an 8-day cruise on the Rhône River in Provence is a real pleasure.   It is a distinct way of traveling to see Europe’s postcard-perfect destinations.  From visiting Van Gogh’s sun-drenched Provençal town of Arles to Avignon and its UNESCO World Heritage sites, and onto the culinary capital of the world, Lyon, France.

    Van Gogh Lounge - S.S. Catherine

    What is European River cruising?  The correct term for this river vessel is Boutique River Cruise Ship.   The S.S. Catherine is an elegantly designed boutique river ship offering luxury hotel-style accommodations, amenities, food, and wine from the region.  The interior greets you with a stunning two-story lobby with a Murano glass chandelier and a life-size glass horse. River cruising allows travelers to embark on a one-of-a-kind itinerary, designed to see historic towns and landmarks just steps from the ship. And you arrive in the heart of great European cities and towns with ease and anticipation.

    10/13/2022

    The Heart of Provence | Rhône River Cruise


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    Travel dates: July 26- August 8, 2022

      Avignon. Ver-Pont-du-Gard. Viviers. Tournon. Tain L’Hermitage 

    Provence is one of the most beautiful regions of France, stretching from the lower Rhône River in the west, to the Italian border in the east, all bound by the Mediterranean Sea to the south. The Rhône River occupies some of France’s most picturesque scenery and it is the only major river in Europe that flows into the Mediterranean Sea.

    Our Uniworld European River ship, the S.S. Catherine, is moored for the night in Avignon within steps of the timeless rampart walls, and near the ruins of Pont Saint Bénézet bridge, made famous by the children’s French song Sur le Pont d’Avignon, commemorating the bridge.  At the end of a perfect day of sightseeing, the river cruisers settle in for a beautiful sunset cocktail hour, overlooking the Rhône, accompanied by a gourmet meal, paired with local wines.

    Pont Saint Bénézet bridge Rhône River |Palais des Papes

    Join us today on our 8-day European river cruise with Uniworld and savor the historical towns and villages along the banks of the Rhône, where we begin day three in Avignon, the heart of Provence.

    9/19/2022

    Dispatch from Avignon | Cruising the Rhône and Saône Rivers

    Welcome!  Join our journey to postcard-perfect destinations. 

    All blog posts are based on our personal travels around Europe, penned by J. Christina.

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    Travel dates: July 26- August 8, 2022

    Avignon. Tarascon. Arles. Olive Farm. Carrières de Lumières. Les Baux

    Welcome aboard the S.S. Catherine where we will sail the Rhône and Saône rivers through Burgundy and Provence. 

    Dispatch from Avignon

    This eight-day holiday begins by embarking on the Catherine, a Uniworld European river ship, on the Rhône River in Avignon. Where we will travel approximately 400 km from Avignon to Lyon, France. The S. S. Catherine is 443’ long, and lean, 37'.5 to navigate the narrow lock and dam operations in Europe. The locks are no more than 39'.3 wide, where great skill is key to navigating the locks on the sometimes-unpredictable rivers. Most European River ships have an astonishingly low draft and can sail with only two meters (6'.6") of water.

    9/07/2022

    Luberon | Alpilles | Provençal Road trip


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    Travel dates: July 26- August 8, 2022


    This road trip is not part of the Uniworld Cruise.  I planned this itinerary for my solo travel.


    Provence is one of the most beautiful regions of France, stretching from the lower Rhône River in the west, to the Italian border in the east, all bound by the azure Mediterranean Sea to the south, known as the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region.   

    This solo trip is dedicated to a look back at hilltop villages that I visited many years ago and making new discoveries in the Luberon, department of the Vaucluse. Some villages are classified as the Plus Beaux Villages de France and others are notable for historical efforts, artists, and markets. Many of the villages are close together and never far from my home base in Avignon.  Provence is famous around the world for its postcard-worthy villages and breathtaking vistas. Where each village has its unique personality and a special allure; it’s love at first sight.  

     

    Canal de l'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

     

    Today my driver is Veronica, owner of ProVans tours. She is very knowledgeable of the area and speaks, Italian, French, English, German and Russian. She is very skilled for all her international clients. 

    We drive east of Avignon approximately 25km to the edge of the Luberon region where we stop at L’lsle Sur la SorgueIt’s a beautiful drive into the countryside with Mont Ventoux high and proud in the distance. It's a quaint village where it's surrounded with canals fed by the Sorgue river.  This picturesque town is a discovery for me.  
     
     

    8/23/2022

    Traveling Solo | Burgundy & Provence | Avignon to Lyon



    My travel adventure began with a flight into Lyon, France, where I boarded the TGV inOui train heading south to Avignon.  
    Avignon is on the left bank of the Rhône River, a few kilometers above its confluence with the Durance River, a tributary of the Rhône, and about 360 miles southeast of Paris, and 142 miles south of Lyon. It has been thirteen years since I’ve been in the South of France, so refreshing my memory and my solo travel is top of mind. The train makes three station stops en route: Valence, considered the gateway to the South of France and the capital of Drôme in the Rhône valley, and Montélimar, where Château des Adhemar reigns over the city, and the third station stop at Orange, where it is famous for its Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines, and my final destination Avignon Centre -Gare d’Avignon Centre.

    It's a pleasant train ride with all the amenities needed for a 90-minute trip: a first-class assigned seat, free Wi-Fi, charging plugs, electrical outlets at each seat, and a window view into the French countryside.           

     

    Opéra Théâtre d'Avignon